Apple and Sidra Risotto recipe

Today we bring you a delicious risotto recipe, with a different and delicate taste. We mixed it up making a sort of Italian-Spanish fusion, with italian rice and apples with the typical Spanish Sidra de Asturias.

The Apple is an extraordinary fruit whose origins are to be find in Central Asia in the Neolithic era. There are more than 7,000 known varieties of apples, and the apples literally followed Mankind while conquering the World. One could say that the apple is the Men's best friend.

Unluckily, of this endless variety we can find in our grocery store only seven-eight kinds of apples, that covers more than 90% of the whole market. That's a pity for instance that one of our favourite kinds of apple, the Melannurca, known in Italy as the queen of apples, sweet and tasty, is impossible to find elsewhere.

Since ancient times, the apples were used to obtain delicious drinks, even alcoholic ones. The cider, nowadays, is a ligthly alcoholic drinks whose alcoholic volume range from 3% to 8%, until 12% in some case. The production of apple drinks is known for instance in the ancient Egypt, in ancient Greece and Rome. The cider is very popular in the European Atlantic coast, in countries like Spain, France, Germany, Belgium, England and Ireland. 

The english name cider and the spanish name "Sidra" derivates from the latin word Sicera, that comes from the Hebrew word "Shekar", or "drink that makes you feel dizzy". Already in the high middle ages, the sidra was very popular in all the Cantabrian Mountains, and we have some information about the cultivations of apples there already in the VIII century, during the Asturian Kingdoms. During the Carolingian empire, under Charlemagne, in the IX century, we can find the very first mention of the production of what we intend as cider in commercial documents.

Taking a huge leap forward, in the XIX century, spanish regions of Asturias and Guipuzcoa-Basque Country becomes the propulsory center of the spanish sidra. In the region of Asturias, the consumption of sidra reach the 54 liter per capita per year. An astonishing volume and probably a Guinness World record!

Today the Sidra de Asturias is the most important traditional drink of that spanish region, and it is widely used in the whole Spain to celebrate events like bithdays, Christmas and New Year's Eve.
The 12 of November 2002, the Sidra de Asturias has become a D.O.P. protected label (denominación de origen protegida). Today the production of the sidra is also a touristical appeal for Asturias, for instance there is a county called the "Mancomunidad de la sidra" (the county of the sidra) that offers to the visitor many activities related to this delicious sparkling drink.

With the apples you can literally do anything you want: desserts, drinks, purees, creams, ice creams and, even if we associate the apples with sweet dishes more than with savoury ones, there's a quite a list of main courses using apple too, like the dish that we'll show you today!

Ingredients:

- Carnaroli or Arborio rice 

- 1 liter of vegetables stock

- 1 onion 

- 1 or 2 apples (to taste)

- 1 spoon of butter 

- Parmigiano Reggiano cheese 

- 1 (abundant) glass of Sidra de Asturias 

- 2 spoonful of extra virgin olive oil

- a pinch of salt

Preparation: 

The preparation for our risotto is just like any other risotto, for instance you can see the steps to follow looking at our "Saffron risotto" recipe, but in this case remember to use the Sidra de Asturias instead of the white wine.

1- Put the pan on medium-high heat, drizzle a little bit of olive oil and put inside the pan the diced onions (à là brunoise), and let it cook for some seconds. Then add the rice and let it toast for a little bit. This step, as we said in other occasions, is very crucial to obtain a good risotto. And here goes the change with the traditional risotto recipe: at this point you would add the wine, but in this recipe you'll add the Sidra de Asturias. Stir it until the liquid has completely evaporated.

Note: We already explained how to calculate the quantity of rice to add into the pan in a traditional way, but we'll repeat here just in case you've missed it.

I've learned to cook risotto from the mothers and the grandmas, and they used to tell me to use "un pugnetto per ognuno e uno in più per la padella", that is a fistful of rice for each one and one extra for the pan. Clearly it depends also on the size of the hands, in my case it would be two fistful for each one, since I've got very small hands hehehe! This is a very efficent way to calculate the quantities needed, but we also love to cook a little bit more of rice in order to have an extra portion to prepare later our beloved supplìs, crocchès and so on...you can do great things with you risotto leftovers!

2- Now little by little we'll add our hot vegetable stock to the pan and we'll keep stirring the rice, in order to help the risotto to release the starch and so obtain the typical creamy texture. We'll add a little bit of stock at time and we'll keep on stirring until we see the liquid totally absorbed. We'll continue doing so for about 18 minutes, and we'll add the chopped apples halfway through the cooking.

3- When our risotto is realy (after about 18 minutes) we turn off the heat and we'll add a spoonful of butter and the grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and we stir energetically. This step is known as "mantecatura" in italian. And there you have it!

Serve it freshly cooked.

Buon appetito! 

The history of Saffron

The saffron carpels and the flowers of saffron

The gold of the cuisine. This is how the saffron has always been called, a most precious spice with an history of many millennia on its shoulders. But this way of calling is not only due to the unmistakable colour that it gives to the dishes blessed with its magical touch: it is literally as precious as gold, or even more, since its economical value per gram is actually higher than the yellow metal! In the moment I'm writing this article, the gold is valued 31 euros per gram, while saffron is valued 35 euro per gram.

We can find the first traces of the Saffron some 3500 years ago, in the Palace of Knossos, in Crete. Here we can find a fresco representing a man harvesting saffron, and the fact that such a scene is depicted in a luxurious palace tell us much about how refined was to use the saffron at the time. We know that also Phoenicians knew and commercialized saffron, and they brought this spice to the western Mediterranean, in islands like for instance Sardinia or to Spain. Making a big historical leap, it is said that Cleopatra herself, when bathing, used to add a fourth of a cup of saffron infusion, as a sign of her richness and power.

When Nero entered in Rome, it is said that was welcomed by the exhulting crowd tossing him flowers of saffron all the way until his Imperial Palace. In the ancient Rome, the saffron was used a sort of pigment and also as a sort of natural and expensive make up. The empereor Marcus Aurelius, known for his refined culture and called the "Empereor philosopher", used to have baths only in water perfumed with saffron.

After the fall of the Roman empire, the cultivation of the saffron witnessed a decay, as the rest of areas and economical sectors. Only around year 1000 the Arabs, with both commerce and conquers in the Mediterranean, brought back to western Europe this spice.

One may ask why the saffron is so expensive, and the answer is because every step is literally hand made! Every saffron flower has three carpels, each one of them has to be extracted by hand and dried. For each gram of saffron are required up to 150 carpels. The saffron used in our kitchens is a kind of saffron typical of Crete, and it is cultivated in Italy (overall in Sardinia, in Abruzzo and also in Marche, Tuscany and Umbria), in Spain (saffron of La Mancha and saffron de la Tierra of Tenerife, somewhat less tasty but also much cheaper), in Greece (in the hot and dry regions).

The risotto giallo, oro e zafferano by the starred chef Gualtiero Marchesi.

Of course, the gold of the cuisine is known for one of the most famous and celebrated dish of Italian cuisine, the risotto allo zafferano, that in milanese dialect is known as "risott giald", or "yellow risotto". A very special kind of risotto allo zafferano is the one called "risotto giallo, oro e zafferano", by the starred chef Gualtiero Marchesi. In its restaurant, "Il Marchesino", beside the first Opera House ever built in the world, the very famous La Scala theater, he offers a risotto allo zafferano...containing an actual golden leaf in it! Curiously, the golden leaf it is not the most expensive ingredient of the dish. The gold leaf is a tribute to the historical goldsmith heritage of Milan, where in the past centuries a lot of "battiloro" (goldbeaters) operated to beat the gold until obtaining a very thin leaf.

So, if you do not know how to surprise your special one, why don't you give her/him a jewel case containing some saffron instead of a very banal and cheap golden ring? :)

Just joking huh?

Golden greetings,

Tom

The historical chocolate of Modica

Chocolate of Modica

Chocolate has always been considered an extraordinary food, almost as if it was food of gods. But the beloved today's chocolate is very different from the original product that was consumed in pre-columbian central America. The Aztecs called it Xocoatl (spelled "choco-wotel"), and they loved to drink it after toasting, mincing and beating it, obtaining a sort of energetic and foamy "caffè Americano" of that time: bitter, not so tasty and perfect to get you though a stressful aztec's working day.

The codex Nuttall represents two aztecs noblemen drinking xocoatl

North of Aztecs, in what nowadays is Mexico, Xocoatl was consumed differently, in a much more tasty way: cocoa beans were minced above a traditional working stone until the greasy part came out, the cocoa butter, creating a sort of grainy and soft paste. Once that the spanish Conquistadores arrived, that beans was brought to the homeland. Still nowadays, in some places in Spain still nowadays something called "chocolate a la piedra" (in english, "chocolate onto stones") is produced, at the same old way it was produced in Mexico and Guatemala.

The exterior typical looking of chocolate of Modica

Spain at that time owned Sicily too, one of the most fertile islands of Mediterranean sea. During the 1500 chocolate beans arrived in Sicily too, in a land of breathtaking beauty, the Modica county in Val di Noto. At that time, Modica boasted the most developed agricolture of the island. During the XVI century, cocoa was just a fashonable product for popes and empereors.
But we all know sicilians aren't people that accept a product without adding their own genial  and inimitable touch. And this is when the chocolate of Modica was invented. Originally it was a special sweet that noblemen used to eat during their celebrations and parties, then it became more and more famous, until nowadays is recognized by gourmands worldwide as one of Sicily's most fascinating gastro-historical products, even if it still awaits a proper recognition in the mass culture.

How do they produce this very original kind of chocolate?  Once that cocoa beans are toasted and minced you'll obtain a sort of a "dough" rich in cocoa butter, you'll warm it up a little bit, but never above 40° C. Next step, add in that dough the sugar crystals, usually cane or granulated sugar. It is important to keep the temperature low during the whole process in order to keep incact the sugar crystals: in the chocolate of Modica, crystals must be seen and must be tasted. Because of its grainy texture and its aromatic and "raw" taste, this chocolate is perfect with strong tastes, unlikely to be added to other kinds of chocolate, like pepper, cinnamon, ginger and of course vanilla, but also lemon and orange zest: we're in Sicily at the end! These kinds of chocolate have little in commons with the other "chocolates with taste of...".

Intact sugar crystals inside of the chocolate

The quantity of cocoa is generally pretty high, usually 65% or above, until 90% or so. The chocolate historically was minced above lava stones, lightly warmed up. Cocoa beans were pressed with heavy roll pins known as "pistuni" in sicilian dialect. Here we can find the main differences between this chocolate of Modica with the modern one, invented in 1880 by Rudolphe Lindt (we'll talk about this history in another occasion). In Lindt's process, melted chocolate is mixed very well, letting it become homogeneous and creamy (this process is known as concage), while in Modica's chocolate we have no mixing at all, and this keeps all the bitter and elegant flavour of the tannines intact, giving to the chocolate of Modica a sort of rustic refinement.

The duomo of San Giorgio, the cathedral of Modica

From year 2000 on, we've witnessed a strong both touristical and gastronomical rediscovering of the Val di Noto in Sicily, partly due to the assignement of Unesco World Heritage site title to the Noto Valley because of its extraordinary heritage of baroque achitectural jewels in the valley, making it undoubtedly one of the World's art capitals of Settecento, or the 1700s. In 2003 was created a consortium to protect the original and traditional product, and some 20 producers were listed. A quality guarantee IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) was then established. Since 2009, along with the international organization FCO (Fine Chocolate Organization) a chocolate festival called Chocobarocco was organized.

How high will reach the chocolate of Modica in this rise, is yet to see. But wherever will go, we'll be there! We advice you to see this gogeous part of Sicily, both for gastronomical and artistical merits!

yong or old, everyone loves chocolate of Modica!

Very heartful sicilian greetings!

Tom

Canary Island's Vilana Cake

In the month of May we celebrate the day of Canary Islands, and therefore we want to share with you regional recipes from the rich gastronomy of these islands.

Today we start with a traditional sweet dish from the Gomera Island, the Vilana Cake!
It is called vilana because it is named after the rectangular tinpot called vilana or milana. This sweet dish looks like a traditional cake, but its peculiarity is that its dough has potatoes as the main ingredient, and in addition almonds and currants. Canary islands have a huge variety of potatoes, as we previously mentioned in other posts, and the almonds and dried fruits are very presents in the islands, and therefore those products are often used in the gastronomy of Canary islands.

Blossoming almond flowers. Tenerife Island.

The vilana cake is a traditional cake with a very smooth taste and texture that we can find in every typical Canary feast, like feasts of artisans, school's feasts, family celebrations, romerias...this delicious dish is also so easy to do! Today I bring to you the vilana recipe of my mother.

ingredients

Ingredients:

• 250 g.of flour
• 200 g. of sugar (or according to your taste) 
• 500 g. of potatoes
• 30 g.  of royal yeast
• 6 eggs
• 150 g. of butter
• 200 g. of almonds
• 200 g. of currants
• 1 spoonful of cinnamon
• 1 lemon zest

Preparation:

1º- We peel the potatoes and we put them to cook. Once they're ready, we mash them with a fork.

2º- In a bowl, we put the mashed potatoes with sugar, the butter, the eggs, the cinnamon and we mix it all well.

3º. Add the sifted flour, the yeast, the almonds (that we previously peeled and minced in not so small pieces), the currant and the lemon zest. Mix it all well.

4º-  Put some butter on the interiors of a rectangular baking pan in order to not let stick our cake to the pan and we put our dough inside of it, and decorate the surface with almonds (no need to peel or mince them here).

5º- Bake it in a preheated oven at 150° Celsius for about an hour. We will keep an eye to the oven every time, because as we all know every oven it's a world of its own. If we see that it's getting too much golden brown on the surface, we can cover it with an alluminium foil or a baking sheet, and we'll just keep baking. To be sure that our cake is ready, we'll put a kitchen needle of a knife inside of the cake, and if it get out of it clean, then the cake's ready!

6º- Let it cool until it's warm, then put it out of the baking pan, and let it cool completely on a rack, and if you can, try to resist the urge to eat it until it's cool!

Enjoy it!

AnGie

Canary Islands Stuffed potatoes

Today we'll bring you a family recipe, a recipe from Canary Islands. This one is very versatile and can be adopted to a lot of versions, according everyone's taste, but these ones I'm gonna show you aren't the usual stuffed potatoes you can find anywhere. I have never find this kind of stuffed potatoes outside of the Canary Islands. In the many, many versions of stuffed potatoes you may find that potatoes are bread-crumbed , fried or gratinated, but this one's special. Other kinds of this recipe are from countries like Perù, Colombia or Cuba, between the others, and we'll talk about them in others occasions. Canary Islands have a really great culinary tradition with potatoes, or "papas", as they call them. We have seen for exemple the recipe about "papas arrugadas".

As for the quantity I'm gonna tell you, they are for three to four people (and their appetite!). Just vary the quantity according your guests.

Ingredients:

- Middle sized potatoes (dependig to how many guests, in my case 1,300 kg)

Pimentón y curcuma

- little zucchini (a Canary Island variety called "bubango")
- 200 g. of tomatoes
- 150 g. of red pepper
- Onions ( aprox. 200-250 g)
- 1/4 kg. of minced veal meat
- 1/2 cup of white wine
- 2 teeth of garlic
- olive oil
- 1 spoonful of pimenton (or sweet paprika)
- 1 pinch of curcuma (natural dye)
- 2 leaves of laurel
- thyme ( optional)
- Salt
- 1/2 liter of water
- 2 spoonful of flour (optional)

Preparation:

1º- Start with prepping the filling of our potatoes. In a pan, we put two spoonful of olive oil, we put it on heat and we add the half of the minced onion, some 100-150 grams and a garlic. Add fine salt to fasten the cooking, and when the onion start frying add the minced red pepper. Fry a little bit and add the minced tomatoes (some 100 grams). Add the meat to our pan and a little bit of salt too. When the meat is ready, take it out of the heat and put it aside.

 2º- Start preparing the potatoes, in my case I also used bubangoes, that are a Canary Island variety of the classical zucchini. You can in the same way have even stuffed peppers. Peel and wash the potatoes, then punch a hole inside the potatoes with a spoon or a parisien spoon scoop. In this step be careful not to break the potato, you don't want the hole to be big. Do not throw to the garbage the parts of the potatoes you've removed! You can do a spanish tortilla, fry or cook them, and you can put the parts of the zucchini you've removed inside your filling to add a lot of flavour...you can use it all!

3º- With the help of a coffee spoon, fill the potatoes or the veggies you've chosen. To close the hole to be sure our filling won't get out during the cooking time, you have many options. I usually put in a bowl 2 spoonful of flour and I keep adding some water and stirring, until I obtained a sort of thick cream. Then I put some of this thick cream above the hole, and then in a very hot pan I put the potato with the hole on the botto, so that it cook perfectly closing the hole. Another option is to use the removed parts of the potatoes to use them as a sort of cap, but with this option you shall be careful, because not many stuffed potatoes can cook at once, otherwise they would open and the filling will go out.

4º- In another pan we do another sautée, this time with onion, pepper, and the remaining tomato. Add the wine, the aromatich herbs, (laurel and thyme in my case), and put the potatoes with the hole side up. Add water, but not that much water to cover the potatoes. Add the quantity of salt you desire, cover the pan, put it on medium heat and let it cook...blub blub blub!
This step will last half an hour, but it  depends on the variety of potatoes you used, so give them an eye while cooking, and try once in a while if they are ready with a fork: if the fork enter the potato, the potatoes are ready. If potatoes are still not cooked, add water so that the sauce will not dry. Try the salt, you can adjust it while cooking.

resultado final de la cocción

5º- And now your stuffed potatoes are ready to eat! I prefer to eat it as a single course, given that here we have the veggies, the proteines and the hydrates. Eat it with a good wine and enjoy it! Sometimes I use veggies or champignon mushroom filling only, sautéed tuna, chicken or turkey or even with corned beef...you choose! I hope you'll like this dish that's thought for all the family and all year round!

Enjoy it!

saludos

Angie