Of forks and pasta, history of the cutlery

Spoon, fork and knife are everyday tools in our homes. Etiquette talks about it extensely, and there is an universal language too, in order to communicate with the waiters what you want to tell them! You don't believe it? Read it down below! That's pretty interesting huh?

1) If the fork and the knife are disposed in a parallel, horizontal position they means that the dish is really great! We enjoyed it a lot! You're a Masterchef!

2) If the fork and knife are forming a sharp angle it means that, even if you're enjoying the dish, you just can't go on eating, you need a pause...for the moment! We'll be back devorating the dish soon, we promise!

3) Ouch! When the knife is forming a sharp angle with the fork but the knife in between the fork's tines...start fearing for the worse! You could be bound to lose your third Michelin star! This means infact that the dish is not good enough, they're not enjoying it at all!

4) If the fork and the knife are perpendicular to each other with the fork being vertical and the knife horizontal, well, that means that the the waiter can serve us another course. You can use this after you've had a stop, just like you did in step 2.

5) This is very popular. If the knife and the fork are parallel to each other it means simply that we're full. The dish is over, stop serving us, please. Just bring the bill to our friends, they'll pay for us too!

The fork and the pasta, history if a love affair:

How was the cutlery invented? That's the million dollar question! Well, we have to differentiate a little bit, there's cutlery and there's cutlery. Spoon and knife are quintessential tools to cut and to...spoon! They were created at the very dawn of humanity, we do not have any information about their creator (a Neanderthal? A Cro-Magnon? Who knows?).

Of course, there is a piece of cutlery that is very rich in history, and it's the fork: today it is a symbol of Western cuisine: in many other cultures there is no fork, if you think about it! Well, the fork is a Roman invention, at least the European-style fork. When the Western Empire fell, many cultural innovations were lost because of the Barbarian reigns throughout Old Continent. The fork remained in use in the Eastern Roman Empire, that is Constantinople, that is today's Instanbul. Only after the year 1000 the fork went back in Europe, passing through the Door of the East, Venice.

Funny enough, the mysterious object called "fork" no sooner had it came back to Western World than it was forbidden by the Church! It reminded very closely the Devil's trademark fork itself! Danger! Danger! 

"I maccheronari", or when the spaghetti were a popular streetfood. Picture of Carlo Brogi (1850-1912)

From the Serenissima (or Venice), the fork, thanks also to the negative advertising coming from the Church (as if we were talking about an Harry Potter or a Da Vinci Code ante litteram) sprout throughout Italy. In the XIV century, in the Reign of Naples, we can find a document advising people to use a "wooden pricker" in order to easily eat food that was at that time the great innovation: the Pasta! 

"Poverty and Nobilty" of the great Totò, showing us the 
way spaghetti were eaten back then in the 1800s

From the elegant Court of Florence, thanks to Caterina de' Medici the fork was introduced also in northern European countries starting from France. Charles V of Spain had even a complete collection of forks, they said. Louis XIV of France, the epitome of elegance indeed, did not like the foks: he used hands!

It is interesting to point out that the forks were banned from the convents until well into the 1700s!

But we have to wait until the 1800s to assist to the birth of the modern-days fork, the one with four prongs. Why exactly four? The answer, my friend, is in the Spaghetti! No, don't worry, we're not Pastafarian dudes, even if we respect every religion, ok?

For the geek ones, apparently the answer is not 42, but is to be found in the spaghetti.

It is said that the King of Naples, Ferdinan II of Bourbon, was completely and deeply mad about spaghetti (who doesn't?). The problem was that in the XIX century the spaghetti were eaten with...the hands! This delicious dish was inelegible for the elegant and formal occasions and so the King was forced to renounce to his favourite dish, the gastronomical excellence of his beloved Reign. The three prongs forks were infact completely useless against spaghetti: try it at home, you simply can't twirl spaghettis on a three pronged fork! There must be four or nada de nada. 

The palace of Caserta, where the four pronged fork was created.

From his wondrous Palace, the Reggia di Caserta (maybe Europe's biggest royal palace) the good Ferdinando told his problem to Gennaro Spadaccini. The Genial Gennaro went back with the solution: a four-pronged fork, with shorter tines! Perfect to twirl his majesty's spaghetti of Gragnano. Bourbons were at the time the true trend-setters, and in this way the innovation sprout all over Europe in a blink of an eye. From the Courts, it was then adopted by all social classes.

Well, we must be grateful to the dear Gennaro Spadaccini, it's thanks to him that we use a modern and useful Forchetta or fork!

The history of Saffron

The saffron carpels and the flowers of saffron

The gold of the cuisine. This is how the saffron has always been called, a most precious spice with an history of many millennia on its shoulders. But this way of calling is not only due to the unmistakable colour that it gives to the dishes blessed with its magical touch: it is literally as precious as gold, or even more, since its economical value per gram is actually higher than the yellow metal! In the moment I'm writing this article, the gold is valued 31 euros per gram, while saffron is valued 35 euro per gram.

We can find the first traces of the Saffron some 3500 years ago, in the Palace of Knossos, in Crete. Here we can find a fresco representing a man harvesting saffron, and the fact that such a scene is depicted in a luxurious palace tell us much about how refined was to use the saffron at the time. We know that also Phoenicians knew and commercialized saffron, and they brought this spice to the western Mediterranean, in islands like for instance Sardinia or to Spain. Making a big historical leap, it is said that Cleopatra herself, when bathing, used to add a fourth of a cup of saffron infusion, as a sign of her richness and power.

When Nero entered in Rome, it is said that was welcomed by the exhulting crowd tossing him flowers of saffron all the way until his Imperial Palace. In the ancient Rome, the saffron was used a sort of pigment and also as a sort of natural and expensive make up. The empereor Marcus Aurelius, known for his refined culture and called the "Empereor philosopher", used to have baths only in water perfumed with saffron.

After the fall of the Roman empire, the cultivation of the saffron witnessed a decay, as the rest of areas and economical sectors. Only around year 1000 the Arabs, with both commerce and conquers in the Mediterranean, brought back to western Europe this spice.

One may ask why the saffron is so expensive, and the answer is because every step is literally hand made! Every saffron flower has three carpels, each one of them has to be extracted by hand and dried. For each gram of saffron are required up to 150 carpels. The saffron used in our kitchens is a kind of saffron typical of Crete, and it is cultivated in Italy (overall in Sardinia, in Abruzzo and also in Marche, Tuscany and Umbria), in Spain (saffron of La Mancha and saffron de la Tierra of Tenerife, somewhat less tasty but also much cheaper), in Greece (in the hot and dry regions).

The risotto giallo, oro e zafferano by the starred chef Gualtiero Marchesi.

Of course, the gold of the cuisine is known for one of the most famous and celebrated dish of Italian cuisine, the risotto allo zafferano, that in milanese dialect is known as "risott giald", or "yellow risotto". A very special kind of risotto allo zafferano is the one called "risotto giallo, oro e zafferano", by the starred chef Gualtiero Marchesi. In its restaurant, "Il Marchesino", beside the first Opera House ever built in the world, the very famous La Scala theater, he offers a risotto allo zafferano...containing an actual golden leaf in it! Curiously, the golden leaf it is not the most expensive ingredient of the dish. The gold leaf is a tribute to the historical goldsmith heritage of Milan, where in the past centuries a lot of "battiloro" (goldbeaters) operated to beat the gold until obtaining a very thin leaf.

So, if you do not know how to surprise your special one, why don't you give her/him a jewel case containing some saffron instead of a very banal and cheap golden ring? :)

Just joking huh?

Golden greetings,

Tom

South fashoned Strudel

Today we bring you a typical dessert from Central Europe, very popular in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy: the Strudel. The word Strudel in german language means "vortex", because of its peculiar shape.
There are many versions of this delicious traditional sweet dish, but maybe the most famous is the one made with apples, the "apfelstrudel", done with the excellent fruit that grows in the eastern part of the alps: the apple Golden Delicious (have you ever heard of Marlene apples from Italian Südtirol?). The Turks exported this dish to Hungary, that at the time was under their domination. In Hugary still nowadays we find another "cousin" of the Strudel, called Rétes. It become a "central European" dessert after the success of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and it wasn't until the XIX century that it started being called "strudel". In Italy we find it in the zones that once were under the domination of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and of course in the German speaking area like Südtirol-Alto Adige. In the nearby area of Trentino it has been somewhat "italianized" using the pasta frolla dough  (the one used to make the crostata) instead of the phyllo dough. 
From region to region, with the pass of the time, the recipe has evolved and adapted to the local taste, but we guarantee you that each one of these recipes is literally to die for!

We wanted to give our twist to the original recipe, bringing it to the warmth of the South, using the Marsala wine (typical of Sicily) and changing the usual currants and the cinnamon for something that fit beter the summertime, like the papaya and pineapple. We apologize with the lover of the original strudel recipe! ;)

Ingredients:

For the dough:

• 200 g. of flour (half normal and half wheat flour)
• 3 spoonful of olive oil
• 1/2 spoonful of salt
• 1 spoonful of sugar
• 1 glass of water

For the filling:

• 3 apples type Golden Delicious
• 3 spoonful of dried fruits to taste (in my case papaya and pineapple)
• 1 cup of Marsala wine
• 100 g. of sugar
• 75 g. of peeled walnut
• 50 g. of breadcrumbs
• 1 egg to paint the surface

Preparation:

1- First of all, put the dried fruit into our cup of Marsala wine. If you can't find it, you can use another kind of similar sweet wine like a Brandy.

For the dough, mix the flour with the olive oil, the salt, a spoonful of sugar and warm water (we'll use enough water to obtain a non sticking dough, that is more or less a glass). We'll work well the dough of our strudel and we'll extend it with the help of a rolling pin, we want it to be very thin. We put the thin dough into a kitchen towel (covered with flour, otherwise the dough will stick onto it) and we keep on extending it. The towel will help us folding the dough once filled.

 

2- In a pan with half a spoon of olive oil, we will fry the breadcrumbs mixed with some sugar, obtaining in this way a sort of sand. We will sprinkle half of this "sand" above our dough.

3- peel and cut into thin slices our apples, we take out of the Marsala wine the dried fruit and we sqeeze them a little bit, then we cut them along with the walnuts. We put it all abouve our dough and we put at the top of the filling the rest of the breadcrumbs and sugar. We wrap the dough with the help of the kitchen towel and we close the extremities, in order not to let the filling go out. We paint the surface with beated egg and we cook it in a preheated oven at 175º C during some 45 minutes...and there you are your strudel!

It is perfect to eat it when warm and along with some vanilla ice cream...nom nom!

With the quantities decribed above we'd cooked two small strudel.

Greetings!

AnGie

The historical chocolate of Modica

Chocolate of Modica

Chocolate has always been considered an extraordinary food, almost as if it was food of gods. But the beloved today's chocolate is very different from the original product that was consumed in pre-columbian central America. The Aztecs called it Xocoatl (spelled "choco-wotel"), and they loved to drink it after toasting, mincing and beating it, obtaining a sort of energetic and foamy "caffè Americano" of that time: bitter, not so tasty and perfect to get you though a stressful aztec's working day.

The codex Nuttall represents two aztecs noblemen drinking xocoatl

North of Aztecs, in what nowadays is Mexico, Xocoatl was consumed differently, in a much more tasty way: cocoa beans were minced above a traditional working stone until the greasy part came out, the cocoa butter, creating a sort of grainy and soft paste. Once that the spanish Conquistadores arrived, that beans was brought to the homeland. Still nowadays, in some places in Spain still nowadays something called "chocolate a la piedra" (in english, "chocolate onto stones") is produced, at the same old way it was produced in Mexico and Guatemala.

The exterior typical looking of chocolate of Modica

Spain at that time owned Sicily too, one of the most fertile islands of Mediterranean sea. During the 1500 chocolate beans arrived in Sicily too, in a land of breathtaking beauty, the Modica county in Val di Noto. At that time, Modica boasted the most developed agricolture of the island. During the XVI century, cocoa was just a fashonable product for popes and empereors.
But we all know sicilians aren't people that accept a product without adding their own genial  and inimitable touch. And this is when the chocolate of Modica was invented. Originally it was a special sweet that noblemen used to eat during their celebrations and parties, then it became more and more famous, until nowadays is recognized by gourmands worldwide as one of Sicily's most fascinating gastro-historical products, even if it still awaits a proper recognition in the mass culture.

How do they produce this very original kind of chocolate?  Once that cocoa beans are toasted and minced you'll obtain a sort of a "dough" rich in cocoa butter, you'll warm it up a little bit, but never above 40° C. Next step, add in that dough the sugar crystals, usually cane or granulated sugar. It is important to keep the temperature low during the whole process in order to keep incact the sugar crystals: in the chocolate of Modica, crystals must be seen and must be tasted. Because of its grainy texture and its aromatic and "raw" taste, this chocolate is perfect with strong tastes, unlikely to be added to other kinds of chocolate, like pepper, cinnamon, ginger and of course vanilla, but also lemon and orange zest: we're in Sicily at the end! These kinds of chocolate have little in commons with the other "chocolates with taste of...".

Intact sugar crystals inside of the chocolate

The quantity of cocoa is generally pretty high, usually 65% or above, until 90% or so. The chocolate historically was minced above lava stones, lightly warmed up. Cocoa beans were pressed with heavy roll pins known as "pistuni" in sicilian dialect. Here we can find the main differences between this chocolate of Modica with the modern one, invented in 1880 by Rudolphe Lindt (we'll talk about this history in another occasion). In Lindt's process, melted chocolate is mixed very well, letting it become homogeneous and creamy (this process is known as concage), while in Modica's chocolate we have no mixing at all, and this keeps all the bitter and elegant flavour of the tannines intact, giving to the chocolate of Modica a sort of rustic refinement.

The duomo of San Giorgio, the cathedral of Modica

From year 2000 on, we've witnessed a strong both touristical and gastronomical rediscovering of the Val di Noto in Sicily, partly due to the assignement of Unesco World Heritage site title to the Noto Valley because of its extraordinary heritage of baroque achitectural jewels in the valley, making it undoubtedly one of the World's art capitals of Settecento, or the 1700s. In 2003 was created a consortium to protect the original and traditional product, and some 20 producers were listed. A quality guarantee IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) was then established. Since 2009, along with the international organization FCO (Fine Chocolate Organization) a chocolate festival called Chocobarocco was organized.

How high will reach the chocolate of Modica in this rise, is yet to see. But wherever will go, we'll be there! We advice you to see this gogeous part of Sicily, both for gastronomical and artistical merits!

yong or old, everyone loves chocolate of Modica!

Very heartful sicilian greetings!

Tom