The Pastiera Napoletana recipe

The Spring is coming! And a brand new project comes along with it, we'll be partecipating in the second issue of the Blogirls 2.0 Magazine!

You can read our article about the pastiera napoletana, it's in spanish, but kitchen it's an universal language isn't it? Just make sure you don't miss it! You will enjoy it a lot!

In Italy, Easter time is usually spent around a good table. From north to south, you'll find a breathtaking variety of dishes, typical of this season. Mainly, Easter dishes are usually desserts: Easter Colomba, Chocolate eggs, Casatiellos, Cassatas, and so on. Today we'll talk about the Pastiera, maybe the most ancient dessert of one of the World's most ancient cities: Naples.

Its origins are legendary, in one of them, the mermaid Parthenope, having failed in enchanting the hero of the Odissey, Ulysses, decided to quit her life jumping from a cliff. But the mermaid survived, and the sea brought her in the Gulf of Naples, where she was saved from fishermen that help her recovering. Parthenope was since then always welcomed there. They say that the mermaid used to emerge from the waters every springtime to celebrate the friendship with the neapolitan people.

In one of these occasion, the people wanted to give a tribute to the mermaid: they gave her flour, symbol of wealth, ricotta cheese, symbol of abundance, eggs, symbol of fertility, wheat cooked with the milk, symbol of the union between the animal and vegetal reigns, flowers typical of the Campania region and the honey, today changed with the sugar, symbol of the sweet chant of the syren. The following morning, the mermaid went back to the shore with a pie cooked by the Gods of the Olympus themselves with the gifts the people gave to Parthenope. This is how the Pastiera Napoletana was born, or at least this is what tells us the legend.

What is sure is that food historians believe this dessert was created in the Greek Neapolis, and was a dish cooked to celebrate Ceres, the goddess of the harvest (Ceres gave the name to the cereals). The recipe was then perfectioned in the XVI century in the Santa Patrizia convent, where you can find the most baroque church you've ever seen. The Santa Patrizia convent is also in front of the World famous "via dei presepi", where you can find lots of nativity scene statues all years round.

The first time that the Pastiera is mentioned is in the year 1634, in the book "Il gatto Cenerentola" (in english, "Cinderella the cat") by Giambattista Basile. It may result interesting to notice that this fairy tale was then modified by Charles Perrault for his "Cinderella". We can say that the pastiera starts out with the Odissey, continue with the Mermaid and ends with Cinderella!

We can tell you another fun fact: the queen of Naples, Maria Therese of Habsurg-Teschen, the wife of Ferdinand II of Bourbon, was famous to the people as the "queen that never smiles". That nickname was used until she tried a slice of the pastiera. The pie taste was just too good not to smile! The king, after that, declared: "we had to use the pastiera to see my wife smile in public. Now we'll have to wait until next Easter to see her smiling again!".
Yes, the pastiera is an authentic cure for bad mood, just like the spring days in Naples!

Recipe: (for two pastieras some 23 cms wide approx.)

- Ingredients of the filling:

 550 g. of grano cotto; 700 g. of ricotta (both a goat and cow ricotta); 400 g. of sugar; 500 ml. of milk; 50 g. of butter; 180 g. aprox. of candied fruit (candied citron, orange, etc.); 5 g. of cinnamon powder; 5 ml. of Millefiori; 6 eggs; lemon zest to taste.

- For the shortcrust pastry:

450 g. of flour; 120 g. of sugar; 60 g. of lard (cold); 180 g. of butter (cold and cut into dices); 3 egg yolks; 1 spoonful (5 g.) of Vanillina or vanilla extract; orange zest.

Preparation:

1- Let's start preparing the grano cotto. Pour the canned cooked wheat (ready to use) in a pan, along with the milk and the butter. Stir it for some 15 minutes with a wooden spoon at medium-low heat, until you obtain a creamy texture. You can easily find the grano cotto at every italian grocery store, or very easily online (it's easy to find it at Ebay too). If you can't find it, you can easily do it at home*.

2- Prepare the pasta frolla, the italian version of the shortcrust pastry. To do so, we can use our mixer. Add first the dry ingredients, then add the butter and the lard cut into dices (both must be cold!), mix it all and add the egg yolks. Mix it again and you'll see a sandy texture. To obtain an homogeneous dough and easy to work with, add slowly 3 or 4 spoonful of really cold water. Knead the dough into a ball and pop it into the fridge covered with plastic wrap for about half an hour.

3- For the filling, put the ricotta in a bowl, but be careful! We don't want a wet ricotta, make sure that yo've dried it before using. Add the sugar to the bowl and mix it all. Then add the cream of grano cotto you've previously prepared, and add the eggs and the cinnamon too. Mix it all until you'll obtain an homogeneous cream. At last, add the Millefiori essence and the candied fruit. The Millefiori in Southern Italy means pastiera, but since it is hard to find, you can use rosewater instead.

4- Grease the moulds that you choose to bake, cover the bottom and the sides with the pasta frolla shortcrust pastry, then add the filling. The moulds usually are high, but you can use whatever mould you want, but it is important that they're metallic ones. The surface of the filling will be covered with stripes of shortcrust pastry, shaping a sort of grating. This is useful not only to decorate the surface, but also to contain the filling that will inflate during the baking. Paint the surface with beaten eggs to give to our pie a golden colour and there you are! Ready to bake!

5- Bake the pastiera in a preheated oven at 180ºC, for anytime between 60 to 75 minutes. Once baked, leave the pastiera to cool completely. It is an Easter dessert, and the tradition say that it has to be prepared on Maundy Thurday and eaten on Easter Sunday, three days after...but come on! Who can resist?

* Homemade preparation of the grano cotto: this is the key ingredient of the pie, but even if today this is very easy to find ready to use, maybe you want to know how to prepare it at home. This how you can cook it to yourself!
This is a large process, let the wheat grains in water for three days (change the water often), and then boil it in water for some hours. Then boil it again in milk for at least three hours. It is not a difficult process, but it takes a long long time to prepare your homemade grano cotto! We usually use the bottled grano cotto, that is very cheap too and it tastes just as good as the homemade one!

Happy Easter and...Buon Appetito!

Of forks and pasta, history of the cutlery

Spoon, fork and knife are everyday tools in our homes. Etiquette talks about it extensely, and there is an universal language too, in order to communicate with the waiters what you want to tell them! You don't believe it? Read it down below! That's pretty interesting huh?

1) If the fork and the knife are disposed in a parallel, horizontal position they means that the dish is really great! We enjoyed it a lot! You're a Masterchef!

2) If the fork and knife are forming a sharp angle it means that, even if you're enjoying the dish, you just can't go on eating, you need a pause...for the moment! We'll be back devorating the dish soon, we promise!

3) Ouch! When the knife is forming a sharp angle with the fork but the knife in between the fork's tines...start fearing for the worse! You could be bound to lose your third Michelin star! This means infact that the dish is not good enough, they're not enjoying it at all!

4) If the fork and the knife are perpendicular to each other with the fork being vertical and the knife horizontal, well, that means that the the waiter can serve us another course. You can use this after you've had a stop, just like you did in step 2.

5) This is very popular. If the knife and the fork are parallel to each other it means simply that we're full. The dish is over, stop serving us, please. Just bring the bill to our friends, they'll pay for us too!

The fork and the pasta, history if a love affair:

How was the cutlery invented? That's the million dollar question! Well, we have to differentiate a little bit, there's cutlery and there's cutlery. Spoon and knife are quintessential tools to cut and to...spoon! They were created at the very dawn of humanity, we do not have any information about their creator (a Neanderthal? A Cro-Magnon? Who knows?).

Of course, there is a piece of cutlery that is very rich in history, and it's the fork: today it is a symbol of Western cuisine: in many other cultures there is no fork, if you think about it! Well, the fork is a Roman invention, at least the European-style fork. When the Western Empire fell, many cultural innovations were lost because of the Barbarian reigns throughout Old Continent. The fork remained in use in the Eastern Roman Empire, that is Constantinople, that is today's Instanbul. Only after the year 1000 the fork went back in Europe, passing through the Door of the East, Venice.

Funny enough, the mysterious object called "fork" no sooner had it came back to Western World than it was forbidden by the Church! It reminded very closely the Devil's trademark fork itself! Danger! Danger! 

"I maccheronari", or when the spaghetti were a popular streetfood. Picture of Carlo Brogi (1850-1912)

From the Serenissima (or Venice), the fork, thanks also to the negative advertising coming from the Church (as if we were talking about an Harry Potter or a Da Vinci Code ante litteram) sprout throughout Italy. In the XIV century, in the Reign of Naples, we can find a document advising people to use a "wooden pricker" in order to easily eat food that was at that time the great innovation: the Pasta! 

"Poverty and Nobilty" of the great Totò, showing us the 
way spaghetti were eaten back then in the 1800s

From the elegant Court of Florence, thanks to Caterina de' Medici the fork was introduced also in northern European countries starting from France. Charles V of Spain had even a complete collection of forks, they said. Louis XIV of France, the epitome of elegance indeed, did not like the foks: he used hands!

It is interesting to point out that the forks were banned from the convents until well into the 1700s!

But we have to wait until the 1800s to assist to the birth of the modern-days fork, the one with four prongs. Why exactly four? The answer, my friend, is in the Spaghetti! No, don't worry, we're not Pastafarian dudes, even if we respect every religion, ok?

For the geek ones, apparently the answer is not 42, but is to be found in the spaghetti.

It is said that the King of Naples, Ferdinan II of Bourbon, was completely and deeply mad about spaghetti (who doesn't?). The problem was that in the XIX century the spaghetti were eaten with...the hands! This delicious dish was inelegible for the elegant and formal occasions and so the King was forced to renounce to his favourite dish, the gastronomical excellence of his beloved Reign. The three prongs forks were infact completely useless against spaghetti: try it at home, you simply can't twirl spaghettis on a three pronged fork! There must be four or nada de nada. 

The palace of Caserta, where the four pronged fork was created.

From his wondrous Palace, the Reggia di Caserta (maybe Europe's biggest royal palace) the good Ferdinando told his problem to Gennaro Spadaccini. The Genial Gennaro went back with the solution: a four-pronged fork, with shorter tines! Perfect to twirl his majesty's spaghetti of Gragnano. Bourbons were at the time the true trend-setters, and in this way the innovation sprout all over Europe in a blink of an eye. From the Courts, it was then adopted by all social classes.

Well, we must be grateful to the dear Gennaro Spadaccini, it's thanks to him that we use a modern and useful Forchetta or fork!

The Neapolitan Graffe, a Carnival Sweet

The Graffe are a typical neapolitan sweet dish typical of the Carnival, a sort of southern italian version of the german recipe of the Krapfen or Berliner, as it is known in English. The Graffe are shaped like doughnuts, while the Krapfen does not shows the typical hole at the center. According to a legend, the Krapfen would have been invented by a pastry chef from Vienna, called Cecilia Krapf, at the end of the 1600s. They are actually one of the most enjoyed sweet streetfood in the central Europe, from Germany to Austria, from Hungary to Northern Italy (where they are called Bomboloni). A different hypotesis about their name suggest that their name derivates from the ancient germanic language, where the word Krafo means finger or claw, maybe because their shape at that time wasn't spherical but stretched.

That may explain the evolution of their name: in the Gothic language this sweet dish would have eventually trasformed and inflated becoming the today's Berliner, while in Southern Italy the original stretched, open shaped sweet would eventually have been closed into a sort of a knot, creating a dounghtnut-shaped sweet called Graffe.

The Austrians, while dominating in northern Italy, introduced the Krapfen there. For instance, in the German-speaking regions of Italy like Sudtirol-Alto Adige these sweets are called Faschingkrapfen, or Carnival Krapfen. Yes, they are related with Carnival too, just like the Graffe.

The Austrian regime, we dare to say, it is responsible of the introdution of the krapfen to Naples too, since the Austrian Habsburg gained the Crown of Naples with the Treaty of Utrecht of 1713 and remained there until 1734. At that time, the Krapfen was still stretched, and we have to wait until the 1830s to see it closed like a donut and made with a potato dough. They surely have been created after the Zeppole of San Giuseppe, another Neapolitan sweet dish typical of the festivity of Saint Joseph that have been mentioned for the first time in the Bible of the history of Neapolitan cuisine: the "Cucina Teorico-Pratica" of Ippolito Cavalcanti.

Today the Graffe are frequently eaten in Sicily too, but they're filled with goat ricotta cheese and chocolate dips instead of the cream patissiere. But let's talk about the Graffe's recipe! Ready? Let's go! We usually serve them as they are, with no filling, but the day after you may need a filling, so in that case we use creme patissiere or gianduja cream to fill them or even to dip the Graffe!

RECIPE:

Ingredients for some 20 Graffas:

- 500 grams of flour

- 250 grams of potatoes

- 50 grams of sugar

-50 grams of unsalted butter

- 3 eggs

- a pinch of salt

- lemon zest to taste

- 25 grams of fresh yeast

- 70 grams of mild milk

- frying oil

Preparation:

1- Peel the potatoes and boil them until you notice that they're soft when you pick them with a fork. Put them aside.

2- Beat the eggs in a bowl, then add the warm butter, the sugar, the salt, the lemon zest, and the milk, where we previously have poured the yeast to activate. Beat it all with a fork or with a whisk and add the mashed or the shredded mashed potatoes to the bowl, and at the end we add the flour too. Mix it all well until you obtain a beautiful ball of dough (usually very fluffy), and we let it rest for about 30 minutes covered with a kitchen cloth. 

3- After that, we start shaping out our Graffe, cut pieces of the dough and roll them into a sort of "churros", or fingers, and then close them just as you would do to create a donut. You can also create a little ball, push your finger through it to create in it a hole of the dimension that you want. After that they're shaped, we let them rest above some parchment paper or above the worktop (always covered with flour in order to prevent the doughs to stick to the surface). We cover the Graffe and we let them rest for about an hour.

4- We prepare a frying pan with enough oil in it. Please remember that you want the Graffe to float in the oil, not to touch the bottom of the pan. Once that the oil is boiling, with the help of a spatula we introduce the Graffe into the oil little by little. They only need to fry for few minutes for each side, until we see them golden brown. We take them out of the frying pan and we let them dry above some kitchen towel, then we sprinkle above them some sugar above them. 

You can eat them even the day after, but they will loose something of their unique fluffy texture given by the potatoes. We would advice you to eat them as soon as you've cooked them, or at least we love them that way because the just made Graffe are sooo rich and tasty that they really do not need no filling at all!

We hope that you all will enjoy a great Carnival with lots and lots of Graffe! Buon appetito!

The History of Pasta

It's strange to think that once upon a time there were no pasta around us. It's just weird to think not to have spaghetti in our kitchens, that also something so universal has a story, has a birth. But, like tomatoes or potatoes, there has been an era before pasta! Pasta is a simple and genial creation that can be summed up like this: "different shape creates different taste". Is infact a nonsense to consider the pasta without his mate, the tomato sauce, or, in italian, the "sugo". The sauces can be more or less liquid, or dense, with meat or fish, they can have different textures and so on. And this is the reason for the thousand different types and shapes of pasta, to better keep the sauce and its flavour. Almost every single town has his own type, at least in the central and southern Italy. The marriage between the sauce and pasta has been developed throughout centuries, often using different local gastronomical excellences. According to a study, exists at least 563 different kinds of pasta.

The astonishing variety of Tagliatelle

One could argue that from the thousands kinds and different shapes of local pasta and its related "pasta chauvinism" begun the unique italian passion for the creativity and the design. And, by the way, how was created pasta?

In XIX century pasta became a luxury everyone could afford

According the legend, Marco Polo would have brought spaghetti from his legendary travel to China. But there are many doubts about this romantic narration. There are traces of pasta in Western World even before Marco Polo.
For example, Cicero used to eat a dish called Làgana. The Laganum was a sort of flat pasta very similar (also in the name) to our lasagna. It is interesting to notice that even two thousand years after Cicero, in some parts of Italy lasagna are still called lagana! Someone thinks that the whole Marco Polo legend was created by the Macaroni Journal (a italo-american review) to promote a dish yet not so well known in America.

But moving from legends to history, the actual origin of pasta is far from being
perfectly known. For example we know that the Greeks used to ate pasta, and so did the Etruscans. It is thought that pasta is a dish that grew together with the civilizations of Man along his expansion throughout Eurasia. When Man started to cultivate cereals and in the Neolithic started to create tools to mill cereals and then add water.

In the Middle Ages Italy, pasta was made like this

But beside this historical ride, we can say that the first traces of the pasta intended as we do in modern times is to be found around XIV century. During Middle Ages infact the pasta starts being boiled, and no longer put in an oven. There is a written document from that period, the "Liber de Coquina", that describes how to do the tagliatelle, from a neapolitan writer. In Italy we use to say "pastasciutta", rather than pasta, and that's because the dried pasta that we know today was created to last longer, probably by arabs that used it to eat when crossing the Sahara desert. In Sicily, that was then invaded by arabs, the water was abundant, and pasta started to be boiled rather than baked. The success was so great that many small shops started the commerce of this product. Other pasta shop then opened in the great portual cities, like Neaples and Genoa, then in Apulia and Tuscany and from there to the rest of Italy and the World.

Once that America was discovered and the tomato was brought here in Europe, pasta was ready to the final and most glorious step. In the previous centiries infact pasta was served with meat, meat sauces and cheeses (yes, the cheese always was there, we can immagine the Romans eating their pasta with Parmigianvs Reggianvs he he he!).

Around year 1500 were created in the small city of Gragnano, near Naples, the first artesanal "pastifici", or pasta ateliers, that back then were family-run. The Gragnano pasta, now legendary to gourmets, foodie, chefs and simple pasta lovers worldwide, is unique because of the particular climatological conditions of the small city, that's settled just above a valley, on the Monti Lattari mountains. In the baroque era, a crisis in the textile sector converted the vast majority of Gragnanese people to work in the "pastifici". Many watermills were then built to work the pasta in the valley below, more than thirty, that you can see still now in the so-called "Valle dei Mulini", or the "Mills valley".

Pasta left to dry in Via Roma, Gragnano's main street

After the Industrial Revolution, in the Eighteenth Century, were introduced in

today things have changed, but the taste is the same!

Gragnano modern and industrial machineries that lead to a bigger production and a smaller price, now finally everyone could afford some pasta from Gragnano! With the Unification of Italy in 1861, Gragnano started to export his delicious pasta also in the big cities of Central and Northern Italy, like Florence, Rome, Turin and Milan. To understand the importance of this small city, we can tell you that in year 1885 the railway that linked Gragnano and its pasta production with Naples (and so with the rest of Italy) was inaugurated by the King of Italy himself, Umberto I of Savoy and his wife, the famous Queen Margherita of Savoy (yes, the pizza Margherita was named after her).

Pasta di Gragnano is our favourite!

After a decline in the XX century, today Gragnano has rebirth as the "city of Pasta" par excellence. Today the city is the first pasta producer and pasta exporter in Italy. We can conclude or super tasty ride with the words of a myth of the neapolitan cultural world, a genial and ironical figure of the Italian Theater and Cinema: Antonio de Curtis, better known as Totò: "Se non è di Gragnano, desisti!", that can be translated as "If the pasta is not from Gragnano, give up!"

Greetings al dente!

Tom